Ophelia pattern

ophelia1.jpg

(Photos by Angela Duron)

SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (Shown in size M)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 28[32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52] inches
Length: 20[20.5, 21, 21.5, 22, 22.5, 23] inches

MATERIALS
Blue Sky Organic Cotton [100% cotton; 150 yd / 137 m per 100 g skein]; color: 80 (bone); 3[3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6] skeins.

1 set US #8/5mm straight needles
1 set US #8/5mm double-point needles
1 US G/4mm crochet hook
Stitch markers (2 distinguishable)
Stitch holders
Tapestry needle
3 sets of hooks and eyes (optional)
2 yards coordinating 5/8″ wide ribbon (optional)

GAUGE
16 sts/22 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES

Since this cardi is worked in one piece to the armholes, the beginning and end of rows are the front opening edges of the garment. I recommend that you avoid joining new balls of yarn at the beginning or ends of rows, to keep these edges neat. The same holds true when you divide to work the tops of the project, since the armholes edgings are finished in garter stitch.

Pdm: place distinguishable marker. You will need two markers of different colors or styles in order to mark the side “seams” where the two front pieces are separated from the back piece.

ophelia2a.jpg

Lace rib (Worked over a multiple of 8 sts plus 2)

Rows 1 and 3 (WS): *P2, k2; rep from *; end p2.
Row 2 (RS): *K2, p2, yo, ssk, p2; rep from *; end k2.
Row 4 (RS): *K2, p2, k2tog, yo, p2; rep from *; end k2.
Rep rows 1-4 for patt.

2×2 rib (Worked over a multiple of 4 sts plus 2)

Row 1 (RS): *K2, p2; rep from * across row to last 2 sts; end k2.
Row 2 (WS): *P2, k2; rep from * across row to last 2 sts; end p2.
Rep rows 1-2 for patt.

Lace pattern (Worked over a multiple of 20 sts)

Row 1 (RS): K5, p2tog, k2, yo, k5, yo, k2, p2tog, k2.
Row 2 and all WS rows: P all sts.
Row 3: K4, p2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p2tog, k7.
Row 5: K3, p2tog, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2, p2tog, k6.
Row 7: K2, p2tog, k2, yo, k5, yo, k2, p2tog, k5.
Row 9: K7, p2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p2tog, k4.
Row 11: K6, p2tog, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2, p2tog, k3.
Row 12: P all sts.
Rep rows 1-12 for patt.

ophelia2.jpg

DIRECTIONS

Lower body
CO 114[130, 146, 162, 178, 194, 210] sts. Set up row (RS): *K2, p2; rep from * across row to last 2 sts; end k2. Work in lace rib patt (beginning with a WS row) until work meas 7.5[7.5, 8, 8.5, 8.5, 9, 9] inches, or desired length, ending with a WS row.

Work in 2×2 rib for 6 rows.

Eyelet row (RS): Work Row 2 of lace rib.

Work 4 more rows in 2×2 rib.

Next row (WS): P2, k2, p2, k2tog; work in 2×2 rib as set to last 8 sts; k2tog, p2, k2, p2. 112[128, 144, 160, 176, 192, 208] sts.

Next row (RS)
Right front (worked over next 28[32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52] sts): K 4[6, 8, 10, 2, 4, 6] sts, pm; work Row 1 of lace patt 1[1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2] times, pm; k 4[6, 8, 10, 2, 4, 6] sts. Pdm for side “seam.”
Back (worked over next 56[64, 72, 80, 88, 96, 104] sts): K 8[2, 6, 10, 4, 8, 2] sts, pm; work Row 1 of lace patt 2[3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5] times, pm; k 8[2, 6, 10, 4, 8, 2] sts. Pdm for second side “seam.”
Left front (worked over last 28[32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52] sts): work as for right front.

(Note: in addition to placing the stitch markers noted above, you may also want to divide the 20-st lace motifs from each other with markers, particularly on the back piece).

Next row (WS)
Left front: P 4[6, 8, 10, 2, 4, 6] sts, slm; work Row 2 of lace patt to next m, slm; p to 2 sts before side seam, k2, slm.
Back: K2, p to next m, slm; work Row 2 of lace patt to next m, slm; p to 2 sts before side seam, k2, slm.
Right front: K2, p to next m, slm; work Row 2 of lace patt to next m, slm; p to end of row.

Cont, working lace patt between markers, st st on either side of the lace patt, 2 sts in garter st before and after the side seam markers, slipping all markers, until work meas 12.5[12.5, 13, 13.5, 13.5, 14, 14.5] inches from CO edge, or desired length, to underarms.

Left front

Next row: Work across all right front sts in patt, remove side seam marker, and place sts on a holder. Work across all back sts in patt, remove side seam marker, and place sts on a holder. Work across all left front sts, turn work. You will now work on the left front sts only.

(Note: make a note of where you left off in the lace patt, so that when you rejoin your yarn to work the right front and back pieces, you know what row you’re on).

Cont in patt as established until left front piece meas 6[6.5, 6.5, 6.5, 7, 7, 7] inches from dividing point, ending with a RS row.

Next row (WS): P2, k2, p2tog; patt to last 6 sts, removing markers as you go; p2tog, k4. 2 sts dec; 26 [30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50] sts rem.
Next row (RS): [K2, p2] across row to last 2 sts; end k2.
Next row (WS): [P2, k2tog] across row to last 2 sts; end k2. 6[7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts dec; 20 [23, 26, 29, 32, 35, 38] sts rem.
Next row (RS): [K2, p1] across row to last 2 sts; end k2.
Next row (WS): [P2, k1] across row to last 2 sts; end k2.

Rep last 2 rows until left front piece meas 7.5[8, 8, 8, 8.5, 8.5, 8.5] inches to top of shoulder, or desired length, ending with a WS row. BO in rib patt.

Right front

Remove right front sts from holder and place on needle. Reattach yarn to WS of right front piece.

Work in patt as established until right front piece meas 6[6.5, 6.5, 6.5, 7, 7, 7] inches from dividing point, ending with a RS row.

Next row (WS): K4, p2tog; patt to last 6 sts; p2tog, k2, p2.
Next row (RS): [K2, p2] to last 2 sts; end k2.
Next row (WS): K2, k2tog; [p2, k2tog] across to last 2 sts; end p2.
Next row (RS): [K2, p1] across to last 2 sts; end k2.
Next row (WS): K3, [p2, k1] across to last 2 sts; end p2.

Rep last 2 rows until right front piece meas 7.5[8, 8, 8, 8.5, 8.5, 8.5] inches to top of shoulder, or desired length, ending with a WS row. BO in rib patt.

ophelia3.jpg

Back

Remove back sts from holder and place on needle. Reattach yarn to WS of back piece, and work in patt as established (keeping 2 sts on either side of piece in garter st) until piece meas 7.5[8, 8, 8, 8.5, 8.5, 8.5] inches to top of shoulder, or desired length, ending with a WS row. BO loosely knitwise.

FINISHING

Block lightly, if desired.

Seam shoulders using mattress stitch (or preferred seaming method). Begin at armhole edge and work inwards. When seaming, catch only the knit sts on the front pieces in your seam; skip over the purl sts. This means you will seam 3 front piece sts for every 2 back piece sts, and this will create a slight gathered effect on your front pieces. Weave in ends.

ophelia3a.jpg

Using crochet hook, and with RS facing, work 1 row single crochet around front opening and back neck edges.

For tie closure: using 2 DPNs, CO 3 sts and work I-cord for 58[62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82] inches. Cut yarn, leaving a short tail, and thread on a tapestry needle. Draw the needle through the 3 sts and pull tightly to close. Insert the I-cord through the YOs in the eyelet row and tie at front to close the cardi. Alternatively, thread ribbon through the YOs in the eyelet row in lieu of i-cord.

To help keep the cardi closed, you may also want to sew hooks and eyes to the center front (just above the eyelet row).

ophelia1a.jpg

ophelia4.jpg

40 thoughts on “Ophelia pattern

  1. First, the pattern is gorgeous. Secondly, THANK YOU so much for making extended sizes! It is much appreciated.

  2. That’s so pretty, thank you for sharing the pattern. It’s coming up to the end of winter here in the Southern Hemisphere, so perfect timing :)

  3. Simply wonderful! Thanks for sharing — now I know what to do with that lys gift certificate I’ve been holding onto waiting for the perfect project!

  4. This is absolutely stunning. You should be really proud of yourself. I also glanced at the pattern and it appears very well-written and thoughtful. I can’t wait to see these pop up on Ravelry. Congratulations!

  5. As the pictures came up my brain went “Oooo PRETTY!”, and I leaned into my screen for details (one day I will learn to click for bigger automatically…).

    Thanks so much for offering the pattern!!!

  6. What a gorgeous pattern, and how nice of you to share it for free! (You absolutely could have charged.) I’m sorry to hear about your experience with the nameless magazine – it is truely their loss. I’ve had some interesting experiences in that vein – and it’s not worth the frustration, submit elsewhere with a good reputation or personal history or post for sale, your designs excellent and are worth paying for.

  7. Thank you for the pattern. I came across this by way of YarnWords at Ravelry. I’ll be looking at more of your blog and your knitting. You are generous to share your talent, and most knitters would also be glad to purchase the design.

  8. You have a wonderful web site. I love your book reviews of African American female novelists. I’ve read all of the novels and had the pleasure of meeting Paule Marshall when I was in grad school.

    I’m writing to ask if you can suggest a coat pattern. I want to make a coat; I have a Patons pattern, but I don’t think it will work. I’d like to make a coat in an all-season yarn.

    What do you think of Lion Brand yarn? I noticed you used one of their yarns for a project. In general, what is your philosophy about how much to spend for yarn? For example, if I knit a coat, which I’ve never done before, should I use an inexpensive yarn in case I mess up, or should I risk it and use something more expensive like cashmere for the coat on the cover of Vogue Knitting?

    I envy you that you have time to sew. I learned to sew years ago and still have my Singer Touch and Sew machine. I’d like to start sewing again.

    Thanks for your help.

  9. I think this is one of the most beautiful sweaters. Thanks for publishing it. I’m going to start it this weekend. I think it will be a great addition to my spring/summer wardrobe. I recently purchased several balls of the Ella Rae Shibu (silk/viscose) which I’m going to use. I did my swatch last night and I think it will turn out great. Thanks again!

  10. I actually finished this cardi – and had loads of fun with the pattern. To my surprise it was a fast knitted piece. Once I have some pictures on my blogspot, I’ll definately let you know. (I’d love to see a Viola-pattern one day) Thank you for sharing it!

  11. This is gorgeous and I’m going to buy some yarn as soon as I can get out of the house! I happened upon the link to this pattern by cruising the pattern browser for free worsted weight cardigans. This is wonderful! It reminds me of the Josephine top from IK. I’d started that but got frustrated by the smaller gauge and thought it would take forever. This is even better!

  12. Beautiful! I’ve been looking for something like this for summer. It should work nicely for a maternity top.

  13. I found this pattern by accident as I was searching for another one i had lost from my files. It’s absolutely stunning, and am waiting to start on it for my teenage daughter.It’s so generous of you to share it with us.You look great too!

  14. I love this pattern! I am on the top right front, but it looks like the instructions for the center portion were left out. It goes from attaching the yarn to ws straight to the ribbing for the top of the piece. Also, it looks like there is ribbing on the top of the back piece in the picture but all I see are the instructions for the single crochet edges. Help! I can’t wait to finish and wear it, but I want to make sure I am doing it correctly.

  15. i am knitting this up at the moment, just got the rest of the back to do, the pattern is written very clearly and easy to follow, knits up very fast too. thankyou very much for the pattern it is stunning

  16. Interesting visual appeal with TWO lace patterns! This will be just perfect for 3 hanks of Rios I’ve been saving. Thank you for offering this pattern for free.

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